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Well, the inauguration came and went and the district has returned to an anti-climactic state, almost as if nothing had happened in the first place…except, that is, for a certain ethereal atmosphere, a certain glittery mist that hangs over the streetlamps on Pennsylvania avenue and refuses authority to the perennial activist tent across from the presidential rose garden. Among the district residents who have survived the tsunami of  tourists hopped up on messages of change, there is a tacit understanding expressed in a head nod or knowing smile that along with the new First Family, a wave of transformation has taken over the grided streets.

Here, just a few shots I hope capture the inspiring, intangible sense waving over the crowd that day that Washingtonians hope linger at least until the cherry blossoms bloom.

Tags: D.C., inauguration, politics, tourism, tourist attractions

Random things experiencing an increase in prevalence in Washington, D.C. thanks to the inauguration chaos:

-Limousines (including SUV versions) - I guess “green” goes out the window in the name of “change” ?

-Sirens - Maybe this has something to do with the influx of cops uprooted from the midwest

-Helicopters - The thundering of the mechanical bird of the district briefly steals from the feeling of hope by reminding residents and visitors that something could possibly go wrong….

-Traffic Cops - Please allow extra time even for cross-town trips

-Ski Masks - Ummm, freezing

-Roller suitcases

-People “short-stopping” to point at landmarks and refer to maps

-Stiletto heels - Your pain-just keep off my sneaks

-Fur coats - seriously, people?

-Make-up

-Obnoxious street vendors

-Generosity - Thousands of dollars raised for Gaza at Bossa Bistro Saturday night! Hundreds for Left Turn magazine Sunday night!!

-Goodwill

-Hope

Tags: D.C., events, inauguration, tourism

As I sit here in my apartment listening to the celebratory sounds of traditional Central American music being performed live in Mount Pleasant square to commemorate MLK Day and Obamania, and go through my mental calendar of upcoming events I have promised to attend, I am suddenly thrilled to be living in D.C. The next week is chock full of events celebrating Obama’s arrival in the oval office (although not in Blair House) and benefit events cautioning citizens that all is not well in the world. Here are a few lesser known events to check out if you’ve decided to brave the bridge closings, below zero wind chill and Don Johns shortage:

Saturday, January 17, FREE GAZA NOW!

6pm-10pm, Bossa Bistro and Lounge, 2463 18th ST NW (ADAMS MORGAN)
Hosted by Left Turn Magazine and Hope from People

With performances by
ABEER ALZINATY aka SABREENA DA WITCH
Palestine’s First Lady of R&B
HUDA ASFOUR
Palestinian Acoustic/Alternative Musician

PLUS AN ART & PHOTOGRAPHY AUCTION!

SUGGESTED DONATION: $5-10
All proceeds will go to United Palestinian Appeal.

Saturday, January 17, INAUGURAL POETRY AND PROSE OPEN MIC

9pm, Steam Cafe, 1700 17th Street

“it’s historic, it’s unprecedented, it’s DC LIVE!
Spoken Word Open Mike–anything goes!
Exorcise the last 8 years or bring in the future.
The time is NOW to step up to the mike
or support those who do.”

Saturday, January 17, PEOPLE’S INAUGURAL BALL

“Join grassroots organizations from across the country as we gather together to celebrate the dawning of a new day in America.”  Performers include: Lotus, WMD, The Obama Girls of Comedy.  Emcee’d by Scott Blakeman
Saturday, Jan 17, 8pm-midnight.  Tickets = $125, more info: http://thepeoplesinaugural.com/ball

Sunday: PEOPLE’S INAUGURAL LGBT GAYLA.

“Join LGBT grassroots activists from around the country as we toast the election of Barack Obama and Joe Biden.”  Entertainment featuring:  DJ Gavin Holland of Nouveau Riche, Joe L. Da Vessel and Melodic, Shi-Queeta-Lee

Sunday, January 18, 8pm-2am Tickets = $100, more info:   http://thepeoplesinaugural.com/gayla

Sunday, January 18th, WE ARE ONE: THE OBAMA INAUGURAL CELEBRATION AT LINCOLN MEMORIAL

Featuring acts like Bruce Springsteen, Beyonce, Mary J. Blige and others

2pm, Lincoln Memorial, National Mall

Monday, January 19, SHOE BUSH ON HIS LAST DAY!
Meet at Dupont Circle at 11 am to Shoe Bush! Purely symbolic, no one will get hurt during this action. This is your last chance to hit Bush in the face with your shoes while he’s president!  More info: http://shoebush.org

Tuesday, January 19-BRIGHTEST YOUNG THINGS ALL-DAY INAUGURATION PARTY

Bohemian Caverns, 9:30a.m.-4a.m.

2003 11th Street NW

“D.C.’s nightlife mavens host a day-long soiree featuring live music, DJs, burlesque acts, comedy, beer pong, drink specials and more.”

Tuesday, January 19, DC ACTIVIST COALITION AND WASHINGTON PEACE CENTER ALL-DAY EVENT

McPherson Square

Heated tents, warm coffee and information on how to make the change you want to see will offer a break from the masses and the chill of the mall and the parade route.

Wednesday, January 21,IMMIGRATION REFORM MARCH

March to the offices of Immigration and Customs Enforcement (ICE) in a ceremony to cleanse ICE of 8 years of repressive policies.  Organized by the National Capital Immigration Coalition and the Fair Immigration Reform Movement.
11Am, Benjamin Banneker Park, 7th & G Sts. SW, Washington, DC.  Metro: L’Enfant Plaza Station, blue, orange, green, and yellow lines. More info: http://www.anewdayforimmigration.org

If that isn’t enough to get you out of the house this weekend, well, um, get over it. Everyone’s gonna be there, even God.

Tags: Barack Obama, D.C., events, inauguration, marches, protests, transportation, travel

Call me crazy, but nothing about this says "safe."

One more piece of evidence for aviophobics like myself to throw in the face of plane-danger naysayers. US Airways flight 1549 from New York to Charlotte, North Carolina went down in the Hudson River just a few hours ago. Miraculously, the crash landing did not result in any deaths, though information regarding injuries is still being gathered.

You can say that flying is still the safest way to travel, but-and I think all the other control freaks out there will agree-I still prefer modes of transportation in which I can see the hands (and whoever’s nose they’re picking or skirt they’re lifting) of the one in command.

Tags: air travel, safety, transportation, travel

Sunrise hot air balloon rides over the rose valley are popular tourist attractions in Cappadocia.

The Cappadocian landscape is filled with many hiking trails-some more accessible than others.

The author taking a break on a hike in the rose valley.

Camel rides winding through fairy chimneys are another popular activity in the region.

A gorgeous sunset over a Muslim cemetery.

From the interior of a Byzantine home carved from tuff.

Tags: Hitchhiking, nature, outdoors, tourist attractions, travel, Turkey

The Bagel Czar at 929 West Grace Street in Richmond, VA

Anyone who has lived in Richmond, Virginia for more than six months is painfully aware of the ephemeral nature of the town’s music venues: Hole in the Wall becomes Holy Chow becomes Hole in the Wall (reprise) becomes Ethiopian restaurant; Sweetwater becomes Empire; the list goes on and on. The only strongholds in the thriving artistic community of 804 seem to be Alley Katz and Canal Club-hmm, maybe there is a metaphysical law about clubs west of Belvidere….

Band and crowd rockin' out at Bagel Czar

One of the most infamous revolving doors in this lineup is the Twisters (which once joined the ranks of venue strongholds) to Nancy Raygun to um, Nancy Raygun to……(drumroll please) Bagel Czar? Yes, it’s true. The mid-sized Grace Street venue that, in my day played host to bands like Apocalypse Pow and Municipal Waste is now a freshly painted, hipster bagel joint. I know, I know. It sounds kinda lame, but when we visited last weekend for a great show by No Future, Rager, The Reticents and Brainworms, I was actually impressed. Aside from the empty bagel racks behind the counter, it actually felt like a show in a (clean and shiny) warehouse. Here’s to the folks at Bagel Czar for keeping the tradition alive-the street before 929 W. Grace will always pour with music.

PJ and Jon of The Reticents from Baltimore/DC

Bagel bins remain empty as the cafe transforms into music venue

Tags: Food, music, Richmond, venues, Virginia

During the 7th century, thousands of early Christians sought refuge from Arab raids and so constructed complex, multi-level underground cities. The cities, in which villagers lived sometimes months at a time, contained all the amenities of their above-ground villages: food pantries, refectories, wineries, stables, and chapels. Due to the malleable nature of tuff, which hardens once exposed to oxygen, Hittites and then later, Christians, were able to hammer these cities into the earth. The area of Cappadocia, Turkey is said to have 200 underground cities, several of which are accessible for tours with a knowledgeable guide. The photos you see here are from the city known as Derinkuyu.

Area where criminals were punished by crucifixion.

A 55 meter ventilation shaft that once doubled as a veritable dumbwaiter.

Ceilings in stairwells were intentionally built shorter in order to slow down offending infiltrators.

Tags: history, travel, Turkey

When Jan and I first arrived in Cappadocia-the area in central Anatolia, Turkey named for the beautiful horses that once ran wild across its landscape, we began to hear the beautiful, yet phallic, rock formations that dotted the plains referred to as “fairy chimneys,” a description we couldn’t ascribe to any of the obvious features of the statues. On our first day we found a nice young Turkish man who managed a souvenir shop with his father and asked him why they were called such to which he replied “Why fairy chimneys? I don’t know. Because they look like fairy chimneys!” “Oh, okay, thanks…”

The next day on a tour with a very informative guide named Mensure, we learned that the formations, which evolved after the thin layers of basalt (left by several widespread volcanic eruptions) cracked, exposing the softer layer of tuff which eventually was shaped by erosion and wind into what we see today. The cap of the tower of rock that we see is the remaining basalt; once that cap of basalt cracks, the tuff will be easily eroded and the fairy chimney will disappear.

During the Byzantine Era, early Christians, including St. Paul, took refuge in the malleable landscape of Cappadocia, creating houses and churches by taking a hammer and pick to the tuff. To alert fellow Christians to the existence of the safe house, stone dwellers would light a candle in the top window of the chimney. Other residents of Cappadocia, however, unaware of this signal, took fright and believed the stone formations to be inhabited by fairies-thus the name, fairy chimney.

This once putty-like rock, tuff, shapes the Martian landscape of Cappadocia. Houses, monasteries, churches and underground cities built as far back as the Hittites, and then into the Byzantine Era were actively utilized by Cappadocians up into the 20th century. Even now, the rock shelters are used as hotels, hostels and for housing during the hot summer months.

This is the first in a series of posts about the amazing nation of Turkey.

Tags: Add new tag, fairy chimneys, Hitchhiking, travel, Turkey

The end of the year always calls for top ten lists, but some are more lighthearted than others. Medecins Sans Frontieres (aka Doctors Without Borders), a group so fiercely independent that their information is often more accurate than that of more “established” organizations, just released their yearly Top Ten Worst Humanitarian Crises of the year. The list includes conflict situations in Somalia, Democratic Republic of Congo and Pakistan. Devastating news, but important to know and pass around.

Tags: Africa, humanitarian

Love in a Rucksack loves finding anachronisms that remind us of a time when people preferred the printed word to flashing lights on a screen and when, should you wish to watch a film, instead of a right click and a full screen option, you were required to push a large plastic cartridge into a corresponding slot and fiddle with four remote controls before being swept away to cinematic paradise.

How cool is Chicago’s Logan Square? Check out their video AND book exchange! We’d love to hear about other such exchanges in the U.S. and around the world.

Tags: Chicago, travel